Trip to INDIA - 07 Mysore

MYSORE

31 January 2008

Dear Friends and Family

The 30 January I left went to the train station to catch the 11:00 am Express to Mysore. I had been told that I would board the train on Platform 6. During other trips I learned that in many countries the people will never admit that they cannot answer a question, they will rather make up an answer! One of the station attendant told me that my train would arrive at Platform 7? While I was waiting at platform 7, I young western woman showed up, approached me, asked me if I spoke English, and then told me that she did not have a ticket for the Express, had been told to simply go to Platform 8 (??) where she could get a ticket. With one hour to go I sent her back to the station with the suggestion that she should try to find some official to get a ticket without getting into a long line. She was sent to another widow where she could purchase a ticket without having to get into any line. This is the beauty of countries like India, you run into problem, but there is usually a solution (sometimes it is a matter of a little bit of money!). We considered what would happened if she would have boarded the train without a ticket? I would have like to see that! Anyway, as it turned out, we where in class A2 which is almost the most expensive (about $5.00 for a 2 hours trip!) and many seats where unoccupied. About 25 minutes into the trip the attendant showed up to check our tickets. I was shocked, the attendant was impeccably.dressed, with white pants, black jacket, white shirt, and tie. A few minutes later, another surprise, they brought us a cup of tomato soup and crackers. I was beginning to wonder if maybe we had left the country on a magic train. I barely got over my surprise when they brought us a meal, plain rice in one container, and rice with vegetables in another container, plus another cup of another soup! This is it for me, second class on the fastest train is the way to go. Unfortunately, sometimes, the bus is the only mean of transportation available between some destinations.

Mysore, named after the mythical Mahisuru, where the goddess Chamundi slew the demon Mahishasura has been ruled by the Wodeyars. In 1956, when the new sate was formed, the former maharaja was elected governor. One of the “must-see” site is the seat of the maharajas of Mysore, the Maharaja’s Palace. The present one, designed by an English architect Henry Irwin, was completed in 1912. The interior contains beautifully carved wooden doors, mosaic floors, wooden columns painted in somewhat gaudy colors, and awe-inspiring stained glass cupolas. Very appropriately, the main theme is the peacock, which I found appropriate as an emblem for such display.

The temple of the Goddess Chamundi is located on top of a mountain of the same name. A local bus will take you to the top, or one can choose to start at the foot of the mountain and climb the 1000 steps to the top. I wanted to climb the steps and I decided that I would see where people got off the bus close to the mountain. As it turned out nobody got off the bus until we reached the top, so much for that idea!. Aa a compromise I climb down the steps, which in my opinion is way short of the publicized 1000 steps. The views are great and the path goes near a famous 16 ft high Nandi (Shiva’s bull vehicule).carved out of solid rock. This Nandi is one of the largest in India and is a very popular pilgrimage destination. With the company of a western woman we walked all the way back to town.

To me the highlight of my Mysore visit was the very large Devaraja Fruit and Vegetable Market, a photographers’s paradise. The opportunities are plentiful but the partially covered market makes it a real challenge. I went back at different times of the day to get different lighting conditions. Walking in the market is a wonderful sensory experience. The displays are very carefully arranged to show the products are their bests. The dominating smell is a mixture of jasmine and other strong odors such as cilantro.

Feb 3, I took a night bus to Kochi (Cochin) which is made of several sections; mainland Ernakulam, the islands of Willington, Bolgatty and Gundu in the harbor, Fort Cochin and Mattancherry on the southern peninsula. Some of the areas are linked by bridges, all are linked by ferries. I chose to stay on Fort Cochin which is a more tranquil place, is right on the water, and has most of the interesting sights.

Love and peace - henri