Eastern Europe - Kiev. Ukraine

StAndrew'sCathedral

Email No 25 – Eastern Europe – Kiev. Ukraine

A 19:40 overnite sleeper train brought me to Kiev at around 7:30 am. From there I had to take two rides on the metro system to get close to my hostel. I eventually found the entrance to the metro system near the station and could follow the fairly good instructions. You really very good instructions as everything is written in the unreadable (for me) Cyrillic. I somehow managed (with help of course !) to emerged at the right metro station. With the help of my wrist compass, a map, and some enquiries I eventually got to the right building and the right floor. This is again, what is becoming a norm, a large apartment that had been modified into an hostel. My (so called) private room is a tiny room with a fold out bed, and it is separated from a dorm by a narrow passage covered by a curtain !? The kitchen the bathroom facilities are nice and well equipped. There is only one hired help that takes care of everything. And, since he needs to go out occasionally, we are on a schedule? Luckily, there was only a couple other guests there and it worked out OK.

One of the reason I choose Kiev, is that it is a jumping-off point to Chornobyl. As it turned out, the agency we contacted did not have a scheduled trip, and, in addition since Chornbyl is a controlled area the travel agencies need a week or more to get permission to bring people in. I did not know this and is not mentioned in my Lonely Planet Guide. A gross oversight!!. Their map of Kiev is also inaccurate. I am less and less inclined to use LP as a guide. I have met some of the people that update their guides and I have come to realized that, given the amount of time and money they get, it is very difficult for them to do an adequate job. Also, they do not provide maps (an absolute must) for some of the smaller town (Kamyanets-Podilsky is an example).

There are enough interesting sights in Kiev to make it a worthwhile visit. It has (in my opinion) the most churches per square mile than any other city (maybe with the exception of Rome). Unfortunately, it also seem to hold the same record for the number of policemen and security people (go figure).

There is a “must see” steep old cobblestoned street lined up with souvenir stands and topped by one of the most beautiful baroque St Andrews Church (see picture).

South of the city there is a complex called the Cave Monastry. A large 28 hectares wooded enclosed area above the Dnipro River contains several churches and two underground caves holding dozens of niches containing glass-topped coffins holding the blanketed bodies of the monks. The believers kneel and pray at the coffins and also kiss the glass tops.

Having been made to believe in taking some precautions against germs transmission, and then observing people kissing glass tops, statues and many other religious icons almost everywhere in Eastern Europe (full lips contact, without any cleaning, wiping whatsoever), I am surprised that the whole of Eastern Europe is not suffering from some “easy to transmit” disease! Any comments, ideas,or explanations would be welcome. I do not get it.

I was somewhat disappointed about the dead monks being totally wrapped up in a blanket. A wrapped piece of wood could be made to look the same. I am trying to remember in what South American city they also have dead monks lying down in a deep cave. But there, their mummified head and hands holding a rosary are exposed. They mummify naturally because of the cave dryness as I remember. Much more impressive!. But then again, most people go there for a different reason (to worship) than I do.

The picture of the sphere made out of painted egg was taken inside of the enclosed Cave Monastery.

The painted eggs represent very old (1000 years +) designs from all over the world.

Next, Lviv (by overnite train).